There are many methods of turning platters.   The method(s) presented below are my preference, and are not necessarily the only way to approach turning platters.  It works for me and I hope it will work well for you.  If you have any questions, please email me at bbec31@adelphia.net.

Using epoxy and other resins for inlay has been an ongoing experiment for me for several years.  There are several tricks I have learned over that period of time and wish to add them to the general discussion of platter turning.  Resins can be used for both enhancement of turned items and for repair of defects in the wood prior to turning. When done well, Inlace ©, epoxy and acrylic can be used to greatly effect the attractiveness of a turned item. Below are some pictures and descriptions of the steps I use.

In most of my platters, I use standard kiln dried 4/4 or 5/4 lumber. After cutting the board to the same length as width I use a ruler compass to draw the largest circle I can from the stock I have. I make sure I have a clearly defined center mark, then cut out the rough circle on the band saw.

After having several platter blanks cut, I set up the lathe so that the chuck and modified tail stock are mounted and the tool rest is adjusted to accept the blanks.

The tail live center is modified to have a very short point. This keeps the penetration into the wood to a minimum.

I use a Super NOVA chuck with 100 millimeter jaws for most of my platters. When I set up to turn dovetails for mounting the platter blanks, I mark my tool rest at two inches from the lathe centerline so I know exactly where the jaws will grip the front of the platter.  Note--in this case, we are going to cut a dovetail in the front of the platter to hold the blank for forming the bottom. This dovetail will ultimately be removed when the top is turned.

The disk is then mounted between the chuck and live center. There is no groove or dovetail in the disk at this point, so it is just pressed between the chuck and tail stock. The pressure gives enough drive to accomplish the next step.

The front dovetail is cut with a scraper specially made to cut dovetails.  Cut the dovetail as deep as you need to feel comfortable with the grip, but not enough that it will make the bottom of the platter too thin.

The blank is then reversed and mounted with the chuck in the expanding mode.

At this point, the back is turned  and sanded to the point of a finished bottom of the platter.  A dovetail is turned in the bottom to hold the platter while turning the top. This dovetail is again enough to hold the platter with confidence. As more confidence is gained, the dovetail becomes more shallow and better incorporated into the general design of the turning. After the bottom is turned, it is sanded through several grits (I start with 100 and sand through 400 grit) and coated with a sanding sealer.

After the bottom is finished to the sanding sealer stage, the blank is reversed, the top smoothed to a relatively flat stage (but not sanded or finished) and grooves are cut for inlay.

The grooves cut into the blank can be for several types of inlay. Some examples of the types of inlay follow.

At this point, objects can be inserted into the  blank. The objects can be just about anything. Segments of logs, crushed turquoise, copper strips, seashells, dried flowers, or any other item that will enhance the turned blank. Even knots and cracks can be repaired with the resin.

I have successfully used System Three Mirror Coat, Envirotex and Easy Cast Epoxy with good success. The resin can be tinted with any alcohol or oil soluble dye or stain. I have had very good success with Trans-tint Dyes.

Once the items are glued into the grooves, it is important to seal the items and the blank. If not, the tinted resin will be absorbed into the fibers of the wood and will stain the wood in streaks. A lacquer sanding sealer is ideal for this application.

It is important to level the piece prior to pouring any resin.

When mixing and pouring the resin, it will be almost impossible to keep from entraining air.  This is not a problem in the end, and thorough mixing is very important. Using a graduated measuring cup or device is a definite benefit to insuring proper mixing proportions.  Mix and stir according to the manufacturer's directions.

When first poured, the resin (especially epoxies) will have entrained air. This is easily removed by blowing with a hot air gun.

Once the resin is poured and degassed, it is time for turning the top of the platter.

The platter is remounted, and the top is turned. Keep in mind that turning the resin requires sharp tools and a gently touch. Trying to turn (cut) too fast will result in gouging or chipping the resin, causing what we could call on wood 'tear out.' 

When turning is finished, there will be tool-marks.  These are removed by sanding, the same as any normal turning. The turning is then finished with any normal finishing technique. I prefer lacquer, but have had success with oil and polyurethane finishes as well.

In the end, you will have a very attractive platter that was challenging to make and very unique.