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Joe Smith poses with one of his
Inlace decorated burl bowls.
Joe has been turning only two years, but has become a very accomplished turner in that short period of time. |
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Joe explains that one of the reasons for using inlace is to fill bark inclusions. If you kept turning deeper trying to remove the inclusion, you would turn right through the bowl or vessel. |
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In this example, inlace was used to fill several voids, even on the edge of the bowl. |
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On a large blank, Joe usually uses a template. This is something he learned from reading on Richard Raffin. Joe says it helps him visualize the final product. |
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Joe feels that sometimes it does not make sense to use inlace. When he wood has enough pattern and "has alot going on" such as this maple burl it is better not to add to it. |
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When the wood is fairly plain, it sometimes helps to decorate by adding a band or two of inlace. |
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Starting with a groove about 3/16"
deep,Joe packs the inlace into the groove(s). The grooves are straight.
There has never been a need to dovetail the grooves. Inlace works best
when the wood is dry. If the wood shrinks, it can pull away from the
inlace.
Joe warns to use in a well ventilated area. The inlace has a very strong odor when not cured. Joe finishes his work by power sanding to 320 grit, then applying Behlen's Danish Oil and wet sanding @ 400 grit then repeating at 600, 800 and 1200 grit. These steps are done without letting the finish dry. Joe says it takes about an hour for these steps. He then lets the finish dry for 48 hours and resands at 1200 grit. He occasionally uses wax, applying two coats of paste wax about 15 minutes apart. |
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